I mentioned in a previous blog that I had had two trips pre-planned before I flew to LA a few weeks ago.
The second of those was to the Griffith Observatory to see the Hollywood sign and to hike to the summit of Mt Hollywood (all those Witchwood trail miles back in May had planted the seed) The observatory itself could wait.
From Venice Beach, where I was staying, it was a 45-minute Uber ride to the Griffith Observatory. As the driver made his way up the winding road, he paused to point something out to me. It was something I hadn’t bargained on seeing – a coyote was standing on the pavement!
The start of the trail was clearly marked from the carpark in front of the observatory and I could see it winding up the side of Mt Hollywood.
Before I set off I paused for a walk around the outside of the observatory to admire the view from the roof terraces while it was still quiet. (This was around 10:30am and the observatory was still closed) It was quite a hazy morning but the views were spectacular!
As I headed back to the start of the trail I paused to admire the Hollywood sign which sits high up on Mt Lee off to the north-west.
My initial plan had been to hike to the top of Mt Hollywood and find a trail that crossed over to Mt Lee so I could admire the view from behind the sign but, going by my reading of the map, which would have brought me out quite a way from the Griffith Observatory itself and I did actually want to visit it while I was there.
With that plan abandoned, I set off. Walking up was an easy hike to be fair. The path was wide and even most of the way and the views were fabulous. What was slightly un-nerving were the numerous signs saying, “Caution Rattle Snakes.” EEK!!!
Eventually I reached the summit, apparently named Tom La Bonge Panorama and what a panorama it was! According to a guy who was sitting on top of one of the picnic tables you can see the Pacific Ocean on a clear day. The Griffith Observatory seemed extremely far below!
Now, how to get back there?
There were several paths leading away from the summit. I could have easily opted to go back the way I Came but instead opted to head down what looked like the opposite side towards Dante’s View and the Hogback Trail.
I’ll be honest, after a few hundred yards, I almost turned back. The Hogback Trail was far narrower than the trail I’d come up and more challenging. I gave myself a talking to, reminding myself that I had decent shoes on and I ket going.
In the spirit of continued honesty, parts of that trail really stretched me. It had ridge walk sections and a particularly challenging descent but I took my time, kept calm and kept going.
(Looking back up the way I had just come down)
Eventually, the trail evened out and widened. I’d made it!
The next signpost indicated I was now on the Riverside Trail. I’ve still to see or hear any rivers!
The trail led me out onto Vermont Canyon Road, across the street from the Greek Theatre. Not exactly where I’d planned to be but at least I knew where I was. Now to find my way back up to the Griffith Observatory.
I started up another trail but it wasn’t signposted and I wasn’t 100% convinced that I was on the right one. A local Hawaiian gentleman was coming towards me so I asked him if the trail led up to the observatory. He had the softest, most gentle voice that I think I’ve ever heard. He said it did but that it was a very long way and very steep and advised me to walk up the road instead. For a moment or two I swithered. My left knee was protesting loudly after the steep descents on the Hogback Trail so I erred on the side of caution and doubled back onto the road and walked the last half mile or so up the easy way back to the Griffith Observatory.
It might not have been the longest hike that I’ve done but I was pleased with myself for doing and for not getting lost. It had taken me quite a distance out of my comfort zone.
The Griffith Observatory was busy when I returned to it. Having travelled all this way, despite being tired and a bit grubby from the trail dust, I decided that it would rude not to visit it…plus it had a café and I was hungry! (Yes, I know to some folk that makes me sound like a Philistine. Sorry.)
After a quick wipe down with a baby wipe to remove the worst of the dust from my legs, I took the steps back up to the roof to go and see the observatory’s famous telescope. Lord, climbing those stairs that I had climbed so easily in the morning felt tough!
The 12” Zeiss refracting telescope is the most viewed telescope in the world. More than 9 million people have looked through it. Obviously, as my visit was during the day and the dome above it was closed, I am not one of them. Another time…
Downstairs, in the main building, it was crowded. The first key exhibit to catch my eye was Foucault’s Pendulum. There’s something hypnotic about watching it, waiting for the next peg to fall. Spellbinding.
I followed the signs and found myself at the Leonard Nimoy sponsored theatre. For once in my life, my timing was perfect- the next film slot was about to start and equally important after my hike, it meant a seat in an air-conditioned theatre for twenty-five minutes. (I know…I sound like a Philistine again.)
The film itself was fascinating as it gave the history of how the observatory came to be there, its importance to Hollywood, listing several films that it has featured in, the most famous of which is Rebel Without a Cause. (That explained the James Dean statue outside… I had been wondering.) During WW II, the planetarium was used to train America’s pilots on the art of celestial navigation and in the 1960’s it was used to train the original Apollo astronauts.
Having initially opened the public in 1935, the art deco building needed renovating and expanding by around 2000. In 2002, the Griffith Observatory was closed for four years to allow a $93M renovation and expansion programme to be undertaken. With limited space available (no pun intended), the engineers expanded downwards into the hillside. The original building was jacked up to allow this excavation work to take place- no mean feat of structural engineering! The very theatre that I was sitting ion was one of the results of the expansion programme.
My stomach was grumbling something about starvation by the time the film ended so the café was my next stop for a rather disappointing, over-priced egg sandwich. Rookie mistakes were made too. I opted to picnic on the terrace and sun very quickly turned my bar of Hershey chocolate into chocolate sauce. Oh well! The apple juice and Lays crisps were great! LOL
After a quick obligatory trip the gift shop, I took a final look around the remaining planetary exhibits then decided it time to head back to my hotel.
With a final pause to take some photos of the observatory garden and statue, plus a few extra shots of the Hollywood sign, I ordered my Uber and called it a day. Happy days…
Coral McCallum 